


Introduction: I first discovered the Cayman Islands when our Princess Cruise ship stopped there one morning as we toured the islands of the Western Caribbean! I fell in love immediately and couldn't resist the idea of returning to spend a relaxing Christmas in the islands! That is what you will read about below. I've only been twice, but I will go back again soon! Meanwhile, I hope you'll enjoy reading about our experiences on the islands and that you, too, may some day get to experience the beauty of the Caymans!
Day 1: Salina, Kansas to Georgetown, Grand Cayman Island, British West Indies
We left Salina early in the morning, four Kansans, driving to the Wichita airport in heavy fog about to embark on a Christmas Vacation! It was questionable whether or not the plane would be able take off with limited visibility due to heavy fog ,but after a last minute de-icing we were in the air and on our way! Within seconds of take-off, we were above the fog, looking at a pink and orange sunrise. It was breathtaking! This was the first flight for our daughters! Michelle (age 8 at the time) could not refrain from murmuring, "Awesome!" every few seconds! Ashley (who was then age 6) kept asking, "Why aren't we moving? When will the plane take off? Are we almost there?"
Rough landing at Memphis, as weather was becoming hazardous; quick run through the airport to catch our connecting flight, barely buckled up before we were taking off again! We learned we were fortunate to get out of Wichita, as shortly after our departure, both TWA and American grounded their flights due to fog! We looked around, curious where other travelers were headed for their Christmas holiday. Many passengers on our flight were reading literature on Cayman. How dare so many people go to OUR island!!!
We landed at Miami, then had to get off the plane and re-board; apparently customs had to unload and re-load our baggage. The flight over the Gulf of Mexico was interesting, as was flying over Joe Robi stadium (NFL football rules!) But nothing, of course, compared to the stunning view while flying over the islands! We heard many oohs and aaahs in the plane, our own surprisingly often!
We landed at Georgetown, Grand Cayman Island at 2:30 p.m. Customs was a piece of cake. Fell in love with the island immediately. Big pink and red flowers on the trees, palm trees everywhere...very, very nice!
First order of business...SEVEN MILE BEACH!! And what a beautiful beach it is! Because there was a storm approaching, the waves were ferocious. It didn't keep us from wading, jumping, and splashing, having the time of our lives in this island paradise, though! The girls couldn't stop giggling, and we all enjoyed looking for shells.
We were famished (after having our fill of airline 'food'!) so after cleaning up, we headed to Captain Morgan's [most excellent] Steakhouse and Lounge. (We had read about it in a magazine on the airplane!) What a find! First of all, the proprietor whom we now call "Captain Morgan", is a very nice host! He and Ashley struck up quite a conversation!! The tables at the restaurant have a grill in the center; after ordering, you cook your own food. We started with loaves of bread with garlic butter, loaded up on salad from the salad bar that was located in a small ship (!), then came chicken for the girls and steaks for Bob and me, along with baked potatoes and corn-on-the-cob! Mmmmm.... Can't say enough about this wonderful restaurant and the very kind 'Captain Morgan'!!!
Day 2: Grand Cayman Island - Shopping/Seven Mile Beach
"Breakfast on the Beach"...has a nice ring to it, don't you think??? After breakfast, we went to "Sun Dog" for a little shopping. The girls got their 100 millionth stuffed animal...a sea turtle for Ashley, a stingray for Michelle, and I purchased a T-shirt. The ocean was calling to us, so we spent the morning wandering from the ocean to the hot tub to the swimming pool with not a care in the world!! After eating lunch on the beach (I could get used to this!), we spent the afternoon dancing, splashing, and jumping in the waves. The kids wrote sand messages to each other, buried themselves in the sand, made an above-ground coral reef with debris that had washed ashore, and played with the sand crabs. Michelle screamed, rather loudly, and rather embarrassingly, I might add, when a pencil-sized sponge stuck to the top of her bathing suit!!! She didn't like that one little bit! She screamed again when she picked up "a baggie with two ants inside", aka: a jellyfish?!?! I had to laugh, as her antics were quite lively! While waiting for Bob to return from his all day scuba diving excursion, I sipped on a rum laden Cayman Mama while listening to a live reggae band! Ahhh..the good life!
Met up with Bob back at the hotel. His first dive was at Ron's Wall on the South Sound. It was a 100' wall dive. He saw a 4 1/2' barracuda and well as 50-60 other barracudas! He also saw jack fish, angel fish, parrot fish, trumpet fish and eels. The second dive was Kirk's Caves. This was a 50' dive in open ended caves, like tunnels. He saw lobster, barracuda, brain coral, barrel sponges and sea fans. The third dive was Castle Wreck, which was not a wreck dive, interestingly enough! This was a coral reef with corridors (valleys) to swim through. He saw big schools of fish here (5,000(?) fish in a school)
Went to the highly recommended Lone Star restaurant for dinner. Ummm...NOT highly recommended by us. This was our only unpleasant dining experience on the island. Ashley's roasted chicken was covered in long-grain-whole-rice-ish seasoning with entirely too many seeds. Bob returned his potato, preferring it baked to un-baked! His replacement potato arrived after dinner, so Ashley enjoyed it for dessert! My fajita was good, but after eating all the chicken skin appetizers because no one else liked them, who wanted fajitas??? To top it off, the waitress put stars around the words "Gratuity Not Included" on our bill. Obviously an off-night at Lone Star, as we've been assured it is usually very tasty...
Walking back to the hotel 'midst palm trees wrapped in Christmas lights, a flatbed trailer loaded with Caymanians drove by singing Christmas carols, reggae band and all, adding to the holiday spirit! It's not just an island, it's an attitude!! Ya mon!
Day 3: CHRISTMAS IN PARADISE!!!
How 'bout that Caribbean Santa??? The girls awoke to find that Santa had left their gifts in beach bags instead of stockings!!! They received Mermaid Barbies with floaties and rafts to use in the pool, sunscreen and lip creme, and "canned turtle"/"canned stingray" stuffed animals! And how 'bout room service breakfast??? What a relaxing Christmas morning!
It was a lazy day. Took a long walk on the beach. (Took two rolls of photos!) Caught lots of rays while the kids played in the waves or sat in the hot tub. The girls played on the balcony for a long time, singing and being silly. Bob and Michelle watched Free Willie while Ashley and I shopped. Ate ice cream on the beach! It was a nice, relaxing family day...! We had none of the tension that often comes with Christmas in the U.S. and it was very enjoyable to be able to spend the entire day with the girls!
Christmas Dinner was at Chef Tell's Grand Old House! The service was impeccable! The waiter kept our wine glasses evenly filled at all times, which meant I had more than my share!! Michelle had Pea Soup, which she loved. Ashley had Chicken Fingers which she raved about! Bob had prime rib in a light peppercorn sauce which was excellent, and I had Schweinpfeffer which was very delicious! We saw interesting Christmas Light displays on the way there, much like those you see in the US. The Caymanian citizens are so friendly and welcoming! It's a very nice feeling, being here...!
Day 4: Grand Cayman Island - Stingray City
Another lazy morning spent on the beach while Bob was diving. I rented snorkel masks and fins for the girls to use in the pool which they enjoyed! After a lunch of Curried Chicken in a Papaya Boat (mmmmm....) we headed out to the Rip Tide for our Sterlin's Charter excursion to Stingray City. Our first snorkel stop was near a coral reef. I was nervous about the girls since it was their first time in the ocean, so I skipped the reef and taught them the basics of snorkeling. (It's a little different than snorkeling in the bathtub at home!!) The second stop was Stingray City. I must admit, the 4-5' stingrays are a bit intimidating!! It took some coaxing to get the girls into the water, but they both loved it! Then neither of them wanted out!! We even got to pet the rays! We were barely anchored at the third stop when Michelle, now an expert snorkeler, jumped right in! She hollered up to us, "Hey, isn't anyone else getting in?", to which one passenger replied, "No, there's a shark over there." Michelle's eyes grew wide, she said, "YIKES!" and started swimming furiously to get back on the boat!! It was so F-U-N-N-Y!!!
This stop was my favorite! We saw millions of fish; tiny neon blue fish, huge silver fish with yellow stripes, pink fish, green fish, yellow fish...all sizes! And the coral was outstanding. We saw the prettiest purple sea fan, and pink and orange barrel sponges. It was all so beautiful and tranquil and foreign. Ashley didn't want to get in the water at this stop; too many fish. She was afraid she'd be nibbled on (!!), but I finally convinced her to try it for a couple of minutes, despite tears. One look underwater and she LOVED it! To hear her tell the story, you'd have thought she was in the water for hours! Quite the fish tale-r she is!! Both girls fell asleep on the boat ride back to the island; I enjoyed watching them peacefully sleep, knowing they'd been given an experience they'd never forget! It was a wonderful afternoon!
Met up with Bob at the hotel. His first dive was at Castle Wall at South Sound. He saw lots of barracuda. His second dive was at Pirates Lair. He said it was 'bunches' of cool catacombs and caves. He saw lots of crab and lobster. The third dive was at Castle Reef (same as yesterday). His favorite dive so far has been Pirates Lair.
Ate dinner at Tony Roma's (a rib joint also found in the US) and called it a night...
Day 5: Grand Cayman Island - Turtle Farm and Hell
Room service breakfast again...s'pose these folks will come back to Kansas with us??? How will we cope back in the real world???
The girls met 'Adam' and 'Sarah' this morning at the beach and played with them most of the morning. They searched the beach for crabs, worked diligently building sand castles, and body surfed. I lounged, visiting with other tourists! There has been a storm here all week, and although the weather appears to be fine, the water is extremely choppy. The undertow is downright scary. I was playing in the waves when a particularly powerful wave knocked me down and drug me along the sand. Every time I tried to get up, I'd be knocked down again. When I finally made it back to the beach, I had small cuts and scrapes from all the shells and rocks. The inside of my swimsuit was lined with tiny shells (very bizarre!!). One learns to respect the ocean very quickly and I find myself thinking what life on a ship must be like, particularly for those who founded this small island...!
We went to Pizza Hut for lunch, then headed to the Turtle Farm. We saw everything from hatchlings to enormous sea turtles. Though this wasn't a highlight for me, the girls had a good time and I'm glad I got to see it once.
Next stop: Hell! This is a large area of sharp, black limestone rocks. It takes about 2 minutes to see all there is to see, then you go the gift shop to buy a T-shirt from Hell!!! Who can resist???
The drive to the Turtle Farm and to Hell were interesting. We drove past cemeteries that were all sand. The homes appear to be small, but tidy and colorful. Sometimes people are just sitting outside, playing guitars and singing! Just hangin' out, havin' fun! We passed a Church where they were having an outdoor picnic. Everyone here seems so relaxed and happy...!
Again, met up with Bob in time for dinner! His first dive was at Princess Penney's Wall on North Sound. It was a very rough boat ride getting there. He saw a big sea turtle, huge stingray and lots of fish. The second dive was at Chinese Wall on North Sound. He saw a SHARK!! It was a 10-12' nurse shark. Talk about sucking down some oxygen!! The shark wasn't interested in the divers at all, however, and went on his way...! The third dive was at Bullwinkle Reef on South Sound. He saw lots of sea life, a 50 lb. Grouper, lots of lobsters, and an enormous crab. Took lots of photos.
Ate dinner at Ristorante Pappagallos! We knew it was a bit 'pricey', but after reading the reviews in the travel guides, I wanted to go!! The menu looked greek to us...or should I say...Italian?!?!? (We couldn't read it!!) Bob ordered...well, I haven't a clue! He just pointed our requests to the waiter and we ended up with some kind of tenderloin dish for Bob, some kind of veal with yummy noodles for me, spicy chicken (unintentionally!) with unidentifiable veggies and papaya for Michelle, and roasted chicken with spices for Ashley. It was all very delicious and the presentation was AWESOME. The tuxedoed waiter was very polite and attentive, even when Ashley smiled sweetly and asked if she could keep the cork from the wine bottle! It was a very classy restaurant with major ambiance, but next time we'll stick to more casual dining. Just our personal preference...
Day 6: Grand Cayman Island to Cayman Brac
Since we're flying in the evening, Bob wasn't permitted to dive so we decided to do a repeat of Stingray City so he could get in on the fun, too! We signed up for the same tour, but oddly enough, it turned out completely different! Larger boat, more people, less personal...still fun! This time I got to go to the other reef that I missed the first time! It was awesome! It was hard snorkeling because of the strong current and the sharp coral, but definitely worth it! I feel fortunate to have seen such beauty!
Michelle had been pleading with us every day to eat at Wendy's, so Wendy's it was for lunch!! How expensive is Grand Cayman? It cost $35 for the four of us to eat burgers at Wendy's! YIKES! After lunch, we said our good-byes to the girls who worked at Don Foster's Dive Shop. They were always helpful and courteous and I appreciated that very much! Taking one last look across Seven Mile Beach, we couldn't help but notice the Crown Princess cruise ship (Our ship!! That travel diary will be coming soon! That was a FUN vacation!) The storm was past and the water was like glass; we had such fond memories of the few days we spent on the beach! I wouldn't want to forget to mention "Al"...he was the bellman at the hotel who looked like Eddie Murphy and always had a big smile on his face!! Very helpful and eager to please! Thanks, Al!
We spent the afternoon walking around, taking one last look at Grand Cayman. We also took the Atlantis Submarine excursion to approximately 100' below the surface. Boarding the submarine, watching it surface, and learning how submarines work was fascinating! Ashley said she loved the sub, "...when it was fishy...!" I had to agree! Though it was a good experience, it didn't compare to our snorkeling experiences! One last memorable meal at Captain Morgan's, then it was off to the airport for a short flight to Cayman Brac!
Our flight to Brac was fast...17 minutes, I think! We arrived at the Divi Tiara late. The beach is absolutely beautiful and the night sky was indescribable...
Day 7: Cayman Brac
I can't even begin to tell you how much I love Cayman Brac! Bob left early for another day of diving, the girls slept in, so I walked the beach alone in the early morning. I wish I could describe the serenity...I felt totally at peace with the world! It was the most incredible feeling!
When the girls awoke, we headed to the dining area for breakfast on the beach...AGAIN!! On the way, we found a huge pink conch shell and were surprised to see that it was inhabited!! We also saw a lizard sunning himself by the pool, whom the girls' named Luwigie!! Breakfast was outrageous. The most perfect omelet with the works prepared by a Bracker who definitely has made a few perfect omelets in her day! The girls had French Toast which they rave about to this day! Island life is FINE!!
Spent the morning exploring. Picked up lots of shells, took lots of photos, watched the divers come and go from the beach. Bob joined us for lunch. It was an island barbecue on the beach...assorted salads, fresh fruit, lasagna and stir fry chicken, black forest cake for dessert. (We were on an all-inclusive meal plan which was wonderful, and a welcome relief from the very expensive meals on Grand Cayman!) After lunch, the girls were swimming and I was sunning myself by the pool when suddenly..."Brittany" was on my lap!! She's the cutest little islander, 6 years old, with short braids sticking every which way from her scalp!! I must say I was surprised to find a little one on my lap, particularly when the little one wasn't one of my own daughters, but she was irresistibly cute! She became my adopted child for the day, and we very much enjoyed her company! She and Ashley had quite a tale going about the barracuda Ashley supposedly saw!! (I think it was a bone fish!) "Listen," they would say, "you can hear it's breath"....very cute stuff!!
Bob returned from his diving trips to report an excellent day of diving! His first dive was Eastern Chutes. His dive buddy was Jane, the woman with bionic flipper feet!! His second dive was Greenhouse Reef which was a nice, slow easy dive. He said it was cloudy when he went down, then suddenly the sun came out and it was like the Wizard of Oz, when black and white turns into vibrant colors!!! His third dive was Sergeant Major Reef, about 300-400 yards off the resort property. He saw a solid green, 5' long eel, nearly as round as a cantaloupe!
After swinging in the hammocks under the palm trees (I'm telling you...this is THE life!), we had drinks and hors d'eourves around the pool! The very talented Caymanian women prepared a buffet dinner on the patio that was to die for! Chicken, roast pork, salads and veggies, and Boston Creme Pie and Blueberry Pie for dessert. After stuffing ourselves, we looked at the magnificent night sky until we grew too tired to gaze any longer...!
Day 8: Cayman Brac
Another one of those to-die-for-omelets for breakfast, then sunning by the pool while the kids swam! My adopted child of the day was Dalia, a seven year old islander! It is wonderful to have these extra kids around to keep Michelle and Ashley company! They learn so much about our two cultures from playing together! They swam on the sand bar, they made sand clothing (!), they made sand angels, and they chased those poor crabs all over the beach! They've had a blast checking shells for occupants! I can't begin to relate how much they have learned from this vacation, nor can I describe the feelings I have experienced. It is indescribably wonderful!
I was beachcombing on a secluded area of the beach...all by myself, not another sole in site...when suddenly I thought I was under attack! These long, skinny fish (probably barracuda, judging from the sounds of their breath!!!) were flying out of the water, followed by HUGE fish trying to gobble up the skinny ones! I almost hit the sand!! I was ducking and screaming and running...! (And I thought Michelle's tirade on Seven Mile Beach was embarrassing!) I really hope no one caught that whole episode!! It was actually quite funny, once I calmed down!
Again, Bob joined the girls and I for lunch on the beach after his diving tours. Today's menu was hamburgers, hot dogs and shrimp salad, with carrot cake for dessert. He missed the last dive, so he's done till the next trip...
We spent the afternoon lounging around the beach. The coolest part of Cayman Brac is that it is so safe. I could leave the kids to play around the sand bar while I walked and walked and walked along the shore, without a worry. Just a few feet into the water there is a lot of turtle grass, and the kids won't consider walking through it to get to sandy beach, so I don't have to worry about them at all. During the day, I have the resort to myself with the exception of a few...VERY few...other women. The men are all out diving. Life on Brac is grand! Very peaceful, quiet, slow...very relaxing and enjoyable!
Michelle was lying in the hammock when suddenly her piercing voice rang out, "Get me outta here!" A coconut had fallen from the tree right past her head!! It was soooo funny! Almost as funny as the flying fish that attempted to attack me as I walked along the beach! The girls have enjoyed cracking open fresh coconuts and eating them! It's just been a great vacation!
We feasted on our last beach buffet tonight...turkey soup, assorted salads, scalloped potatoes, a shrimp dish and corned beef and cabbage. Dessert was coconut creme pie-Bob had thirds!!! Why not? It's not as though it's the real world, or anything remotely close to it!
Day 9: Cayman Brac to Grand Cayman to Memphis to Wichita to Salina
How do you leave paradise??? Well, it starts with an early morning wake up call, includes customs, a flight, more customs, declarations, another flight. We arrived in Memphis to wait out our 6 1/2 hour delay. (Ahhh...New Year's Eve with The King!) It was cool, drizzly, and foggy. We were pining for our island paradise. We passed the time by watching two football games, eating pizza and popcorn, and drinking Pepsi! We arrived in Wichita around 10:00 p.m. on New Years Eve, just in time for the brunt of a major winter storm. We had let [teenage] relatives borrow the car while we were gone, and there it sat at the airport, completely out of gas and iced over so bad that we couldn't even open the car doors. The temperature was 20 degrees F - the only jacket we had was a light windbreaker. This was NOT a happy moment...! Abandoned cars that had slid in the ditch from the ice were seen all the way from Wichita to Salina, and we could only drive 30 mph maximum on the Interstate. We arrived home at 1:00 a.m., stopping by 'Grandma's' to wish the cousins a Happy New Year! I know we're from Kansas, but I'll say this now...if I tap my ruby red slippers together three times, I'll be saying, "There's no place like Cayman...!"

Hope you enjoyed my account of Christmas in the Cayman Islands. It truly was a relaxing vacation! If you have comments, please feel free to e-mail me! I hope that you, someday, will find your own piece of paradise, too!!